It turns out surfing is hard work and taxed a lot of muscles I didn't know I had. Most of the work is in the paddling, in which you lie on your stomach on the surf board with your head raised so you can see where you are going, and your feet completely out of the water for speed. The next day, my bottommost rib was quite tender as it had supported a lot of my weight. Also my neck was sore from holding my head up in this position, not to mention my arms. I knew it was time to go in when I resorted to paddling with my chin resting on the surfboard, and holding my breath whenever a wave came along.
Comments
I should upload the photo I have of Freddy in El Salvador. He didn't wear a rash guard one of the days, and man it looked painful.
— Catherine Hovell