On our last morning, we took the subway to Gyeongbok palace. We arrived just in time to see the changing of the guard or some other procession. It was strictly a tourist affair, but was carried out with plenty of pomp and circumstance. There was an explanation in "English" but neither Monica and I could grasp more than a few obvious words and phrases. Also, notably, all the men in the processions had big beards, which brought the beard count tally for the trip up from about 3 to 100.